Fs Racing Buggy Manual Woodworkers

0CC 1/5th Gas Radio Controlled Buggy. Email a friend, if they buy you receive bonus loyalty points! Fs Racing Buggy Manual Woodworkers. Download >> Download Rc10 re release manual woodworkers Read. Manual muscle. McAllister Racing has been. Parts rc10 buggy rc10 classic for sale rc10.

Hi,Myles Thanks for your inquiry. I have checked it for you.

You need to pay for shipping to the United Kingdom. You can see the shipping cost and delivery time during the check out. Steps to follow: 1.Add your product to your cart.

Enter your delivery country. The shipping cost will be displayed automatically. The price shown on the on the product page is the item price, shipping cost is not included. Delivery cost depends on the shipping method on many factors such as weight, shipping time and the destination country. Hi,Myles Thanks for your inquiry. I have checked it for you.

You need to pay for shipping to the United Kingdom. You can see the shipping cost and delivery time during the check out. Steps to follow: 1.Add your product to your cart. Enter your delivery country. The shipping cost will be displayed automatically. The price shown on the on the product page is the item price, shipping cost is not included.

Delivery cost depends on the shipping method on many factors such as weight, shipping time and the destination country. Pros: Works very well, strong, tough and fun. On a flat slippery surface (wet, dusty, sandy, shallow snow) is hillarious. I got it at a campaign price:-). 4WD is efficient and does not easily allow drifting, but the recovery from a slide can be done at full power. The acceleration is spectacular, also when all wheels are spinning:-) Cons: The gearbox behind the engine is not protected enough. Small stones and sand can get in and make it run noisy or lock at times, also can cause wear to the plastic gears.

I had to remove stones from the gears and to stuff the gaps by the gearbox cover with cotton to restore and ensure proper and quiet operation (see the photo, at the exact center of it). Lift the canopy to have better access/overview when doing that. Feb 25,2017 Is this helpful? Yes ( 0) No ( 0). Pros: I bought a flash deal from EU store (75$ + 20$ shipping), 95$ were an excellent price All inclusive, ready to run, although the engine will be swapped with a 3s LIPO powered brushless one.

Nevertheless NiMH battery, pistol-grip-transmitter, changeable antennas, stickers, reserve clips, printed user manual with exploded views.all this was found inside. Only missing parts to start out of the box: Transmitter batteries Cons: not really in relation to the price paid but independent and absolute: - no transmitter batteries, some AA-cells are needed - excessive toe-in on front wheels, needs some tuning. Sep 18,2016 Is this helpful? Yes ( 0) No ( 0). Pros: Works very well, strong, tough and fun.

On a flat slippery surface (wet, dusty, sandy, shallow snow) is hillarious. I got it at a campaign price:-). 4WD is efficient and does not easily allow drifting, but the recovery from a slide can be done at full power. The acceleration is spectacular, also when all wheels are spinning:-) Cons: The gearbox behind the engine is not protected enough. Small stones and sand can get in and make it run noisy or lock at times, also can cause wear to the plastic gears. I had to remove stones from the gears and to stuff the gaps by the gearbox cover with cotton to restore and ensure proper and quiet operation (see the photo, at the exact center of it). Lift the canopy to have better access/overview when doing that.

Feb 25,2017 Is this helpful? Yes ( 0) No ( 0). Pros: I bought a flash deal from EU store (75$ + 20$ shipping), 95$ were an excellent price All inclusive, ready to run, although the engine will be swapped with a 3s LIPO powered brushless one. Nevertheless NiMH battery, pistol-grip-transmitter, changeable antennas, stickers, reserve clips, printed user manual with exploded views.all this was found inside. Only missing parts to start out of the box: Transmitter batteries Cons: not really in relation to the price paid but independent and absolute: - no transmitter batteries, some AA-cells are needed - excessive toe-in on front wheels, needs some tuning. Sep 18,2016 Is this helpful? Yes ( 0) No ( 0).

Shipping There are two key factors which will affect the time you receive your items. 1 Item processing time After confirming your payment, we usually ship products out within 24 business hours. However, sometimes due to large transaction volumes or other order issues, we may require up to 3 working days to process orders. You will receive a notification email as soon as your product(s) have been dispatched.

Quote: Lenght: 470mm Width: 310mm Height: 195mm Wheelbase: 330mm Tire diamter: 112mm Weight: 3162gr Motor: 3674 2370Kv ESC: 80A, 2s-4s, BEC 5.75v Gear ratio: 9.5:1 Transmitter: FS GT2 2.4Ghz 2ch, 8 x LR6/AA batteries (not included) Parts inspection: Hardware: This car mainly use phillips screws, few allen screws for shock tower, motor pinion. Transmission: It use: M1 16T motor pinion, 46T steel spur gear. Differential: - Very sticky grease. It use helical gear. 8x16 ball brearings (update ) - Filled with the same sticky grease than outside. Sealed with o-ring.

Casted aluminum gears. Seem compatible with the HPI Vorza/Trophy differential gears i have. Differential case sealed with a rubber gasket Bevel gear: - 8mm axle. Gearbox: - 8x16 ball bearings. Drive shaft: It use 4mm drive shaft. Universal drive shaft on front, standard drive shaft on center and rear. There are o-ring in rear drive cups.

Suspension: Rear supsension: - Sway bar. Aluminum shock absorber. 3 holes in shock tower, 2 in a-arm, 4 holes in rear hub carrier and 4 holes on shock tower for the tie-rods. 3mm hinge pin for the rear hub carrier. We can adjust rear hub carrier position with two plastic washers.

Netnewswire news aggregator reading application. Exploded view: - 8mm axle. 8x16 ball bearings. 4mm drive shaft. Rear tie-rod: - Good size. Front supsension: - Sway bar.

Aluminum casted front knuckle. 3 holes in shock tower, 2 holes in a-arm. We can see the kind of universal drive shaft. 8mm wheel axle with aluminum 17mm hex hub, grub screw who held the hex pin. Shocks mount is steel, not only bolt with nuts, obviously they are same on rear. A-arm hinge pins: - 4mm.

Hinge pin held by e-clips. Rear shock absorber: First thought: - Nice look. Lot of aluminum parts. Pre-equiped with sway bar, good point. Wing mount seems solid.

Helical gear is a good thing. Shocks absorber seem correct, not the best. 4mm aluminum for shock tower is better than have 3mm. Maintenance is easy.

The big fan on the motor let think that it is overgeared. I'm not a big fan of e-clips to held hinge pin.

Can be upgraded with Duratrax 835E hinge pin. This car need adjustment: change oil in differentials (i didn't verified if there is oil or grease inside), change oil and spring on shock absorber. No gravel on chassis plate. No manual for the esc, that's annoying.

But it seems easy to program. It has the size of a racer 1/8 buggy. Not the most recent design, but can maybe be good for beginner on local club's track imo.

My overall impression is pretty good. Its conception isn't bad. Like many RTR, it need to verify the assembly and add threadlock glue on some nuts. There are many review and thread about the Duratrax 835E, as this car is almost same, we can find many information about its durability. At the todays price on banggood it seems a good deal.

Fs racing buggy

Spares: A-arms: Duratrax, Hobao Hyper 7 TQ comparison: - Hobao a-arms fit, only need to sand a little bit or add a washer on the main hinge pin maybe. Repair and modification: As the aluminum chassis plate bent after the videos 'jumps carnage', i didn't have the heart to let this poor car in this situation during a too long time.

First i manage to straighten the aluminum chassis plate: Then i put a 3mm aluminum upper deck: - I put the upper deck in the axle of the center differential, who isn't at the center of the chassis. I put a piece of square steel to attach the upper deck on the rear, only 1,5mm of thickness, maybe not enough, i will see. The box for the receiver (who is pretty big) doesn't have enough room above the steering servo with the upper deck, so i decided to remove it.

I also straighten the rear center drive shaft who was really well bent. Its steel seems pretty good, it was hard to straighten it. Videos: Speed test: (2 min 56 sec). I broke the right front a-arm first: So i bought Duratrax front (DTXC9341) and rear (DTXC9342) a-arm to replace the front right a-arm: - I took a look on the plastic of FS Racing and Duratrax a-arms. Plastic seems have the same flexibility. What is sure is that they use the exact same mold. With this first breakage main hinge pin was a little bit bent and the right shock absorber shaft was really bent, i manage to straighten them.

Then the left front a-arm broke: So i'm quite agree with the Jang (Ultimate rc network) review: (8 min 16 sec). I finally received my 835E and just wanted to post a thank you to those that have posted info about what upgrades, etc. Will be needed. I also wanted to post what I have discovered so far as well. When I ordered the 835E I had already done a lot of research and knew most of the parts I wanted to upgrade so thanks to the posts by others here.

So I ordered several parts. Some were a direct fit. Others sort of worked. I knew that one of the first things I would be changing was the steering knuckles.

I immediately noticed just how bad the stock ones are. The very first time I went to take out the screws for the hub carrier bushings the thread in one of the bushings stripped completely. There were no threads left in it. Thankfully I had already ordered the complete 'Ofna 1/8 Hyper 7 TQ. STEERING KNUCKLES, AXLE HUBS & WHEEL BEARINGS' from Dollarhobbyz.

The way these are built is so much better. The knuckles and bearings were a direct fit. I didnt use the carriers though because they were 20 degree and would have required a different upper arm. Anyway Ill list below all the parts I ordered and if they were a direct fit, or needed another part etc. The parts are a kind of a mix of what others have used. 1 ) 'Ofna 1/8 Hyper 7 TQ. STEERING KNUCKLES, AXLE HUBS & WHEEL BEARINGS' Which consists of the following part numbers.OFNA Part # 19032.

Knuckles were a direct drop in, and fit perfect -OFNA Part # 19303 Two (2) Front C-Hubs (Would fit if you also had the matching upper 20 degree arms. Didnt use) -OFNA Part # 19036 Two (2) Rear Hubs (These should fit, but I decided not to use them) -OFNA Part # 18076 Eight (8) 8x16mm Ball Bearings (Part # 18076 x 2) I used all of these. Covers front and rear carrier bearings. These seem to be a better bearing than the stock ones, and I noticed that a couple of the stock bearings were already dented right from the box. 2) OFNA Part # 19024 HYPER 7 Front Lower A Arms. (These were a perfect direct fit) 3) OFNA Part # 19939 Hyper 7 Rear A Arms. (These fit, however the mount hole for the sway bar didnt line up.

I could have had it at an awkward angle, or bent the sway bar which I didnt want to do. So I didnt use the rear ones. I did some more research and found Part #19939 is a newer version of the original part #19039. The main difference I see between them is where the sway bar mounts. It is further away from the end of the arm on 19939. So I ordered the original 19039, which is also Hoboa part #87039.

Judging from pics it looks like the mounting hole for the sway bar on 19039 is in the same place as the stock Duratrax arms. I will be getting the new ones either today or tomorrow and I will update this once I know if they fit. UPDATE: The part # OFNA 19039/Hoboa 87039 are a direct fit. The mounting holes for the sway bar screw line up exactly like the stock ones. Not at the angle they were with 19939. Other than the issues with the steering knuckles I really love the car so far.

I also bought some Duratrax Bandito street tires so I wont wear down the stock ones when Im just running up and how my street. Thanks again to all the info others have posted, and I hope I can add to that as well. I decided to buy front and rear Ofna/Hobao hyper 7 a-arms. If the Duratrax a-arms break i will test them. Photo who show the result after the video: - The center chassis is pretty well protected and not dirty.

Rod between the two wing mount is broken: Others info: - While cleaning the car i discover that the cover, the 'disc', who close the motor can on the shaft side, where we put the motor pinion, spins on itself, it is odd, and it is the heatsink who avoid the motor can to spin too much on itself because the motor is attached on the motor mount by this disc/cover itself screwed on the motor mount. The motor mount doesn't allow to put a bigger motor than 36mm diameter. The ground clearance is pretty low. After i changed the right front a-arm, i changed the front shocks position on the a-arm to reach the maximum ground clearance on front but it is still pretty low compared to my other 1/8 buggies. One rear e-clip on main hinge pin was almost removed.

Fs Racing Buggy Parts

Otherwise when it jump it is not too bad. I will put or change the oil in the differentials. EDIT: i forgot to mention that the tires aren't the best for this kind of surface and the steering servo is too much on the slow side. Jumps carnage: (9 min 4 sec). When you don't crash a car too hard and when its aliminum chassis plate bend like in the video, i'm sad to say that, but i don't advise to buy this car: - First the front a-arms and now the chassis plate, it is too much bad things for the same car.

I will try to reinforce the chassis but the chassis plate is really well bent and not so easy to straighten now, so we won't see it run for a long time. I don't know, and i'm really not sure, that a Hobao hyper 7 chassis plate will be a direct fit and i'm not sure it will be stronger also. Otherwise the servo works pretty nice. Carnage 2: (5 min 29 sec). So the chassis plate bent again, but my upper deck didn't bent. It seems it is because how is mounted the motor, the motor mount is a 'small' aluminum part where nothing avoid it to move.

So with the motor weight, this can cause the chassis to bend. And the chassis bend on the motor side, not on the other side. I bought this motor mount to see if this will resolve the issue: - A wing mount screw broke, this one: Who goes here: - The rear plastic pivot brace broke also: Fortunately, i was sure this part would break, so i did buy the duratrax aluminum pivot brace already: Feel free to ask any questions More to come, stay tuned. Not this one.

But it is based on the same chassis than the FS Racing raptor or the Victory, but not the X. And yes, Jamara has sold rebranded FS racing chassis, like the akron, dakar buggy, tiger MT.all based on the same plastform than the raptor or victory. Here the chassis of this Jamare Ultra BL8: Sell a 1/10 chassis as an 1/8 it isn't a good thing imo. I'm pretty sure that the Duratrax 835E was a FS Racing chassis. The E9.5 has been released in 2011 when the duratrax has been released in 2013. And to be more precise, the duratrax 835B, nitro version, released in 2012, is the same chassis than the FS Racing E9, the E9.5 is an upgrade of the E9, but it still has the aluminum chassis of the nitro version.

As this car is almost same than the Duratrax 835E (Excepted the chassis plate, motor mount and few other parts. I have bought duratrax 835E parts and they are 100% same, same plastic also, than the FS racing E9.5), this car can also use Hobao/ofna hyper 7 parts, you can find more info on the Duratrax 835E thread on rctech forum: and more precisely here: I have bought ofna/hobao hyper 7 fornt a-arm to verify if they directly fit,i'm waiting them.

Off-road Racing Buggy

I will try to upload my off-road test video tomorrow, there will be interesting information. But, from what i see, the FS Racing E9.5 can't use a 835E motor mount, excepted if you do new holes in the chassis plate. The Hyper 7 motor mount can maybe fit, the chassis plate seems identical.